The weather on this coast changes faster than you can pack a jacket. In three days I watched fog swallow a lighthouse, burn off by noon, and return before dinner, and I learned to stop checking the forecast and start checking the sky.

The path runs along the top of the cliffs for most of its length, dropping into small harbours where the boats sit on the mud at low tide. Each village has one café, one shop and one bench with the best view, and by the second day I had a favourite of each.

Walk out, ride back

The simplest way to see it is to walk in one direction each morning and take the local bus back in the afternoon. The buses are small and infrequent, but they wait for walkers, and the drivers know which stops are closest to the path.

Bring layers, a flask and more patience than you think you need. The best light comes after the rain, and the rain always comes.