I bought a plain carbon-steel pan to replace the third non-stick pan I had worn out in as many years. The first week I nearly gave up on it. The second week I started to understand it. Six months in, it is the pan I reach for first.

Carbon steel needs seasoning: a thin layer of oil baked onto the surface until it turns dark and slick. The pan arrives pale grey and sticky, and it takes a few rounds of frying onions and potatoes before it settles down.

What it does well

It gets very hot and stays hot, so steak and vegetables brown properly instead of steaming. It goes from the hob into the oven without a second thought. And unlike a coated pan, it improves with use.

What it asks of you

No soaking, no dishwasher, and a quick dry on the hob after washing. Acidic sauces strip the seasoning, so tomatoes go in a different pan. It is heavy, too: tossing a stir-fry is a workout.